Vietnam, 2010

Back on the road again - this time I was in Vietnam. After a 30-hour commute, I arrived in the capital (Ha Noi) to find it super hot and sticky. I made it to my guesthouse, met up with my friend and got ready for our boat trip that was leaving the following morning. The plan was to get away from the heat and relax in beautiful Ha Long Bay for 3-days while I worked through my jet lag....... Good plan! This boat was pure luxury: 8-course meals, comfortable beds, beautiful surroundings, and the most plush towels with which I have had the pleasure to dry my hands! We visited fishing villages and caves, we had barbecues on private beaches and kayaked and swam in the perfect water. Special thanks go to our fellow ship mates and our guide (Tao) for making it an excellent way to kick-off a trip.

Back in the insanity of Ha Noi we paid a visit to Uncle Ho lying in state and to a beautifully maintained temple in the centre of town. We wandered the streets for hours soaking-in the noise and chaos - and it was certainly chaotic - no rules whatsoever governing the traffic of motorbikes except the understanding that you wouldn't hit anyone if they stepped out in front of you to cross the street. A very important rule.

Leaving the chaos, we boarded an overnight train to the Northern mountains. A total relief from the sticky heat and noise, the town of Sapa and its surrounds was just perfect. We quickly made friends with 2 girls (Lee & So), from whom we promised to purchase souvenirs, and earned ourselves some personal tour guides. We hiked in the area surrounding the town and rented a motorbike to drive to a nearby waterfall. Now about this driving - we went through some of the densest fog I've ever seen - amazing that headlights appear to be optional in said conditions! On the second day we followed our friends to their own village; 3+ hours away in the heat of the sun. We bought food from the market on the way and climbed to the highest house, above what seemed like dozens of rice terraces, for our homemade lunch. Thank you to So and Lee for preparing such a feast for us. It was a fabulous meal with a breathtaking view; we ate the rice that had grown from the very fields in which we were standing!

After many goodbyes to friends, with promises to keep in touch, and a crazy few moments in the airport when I was falsely accused of trying to smuggle fuel onto my flight, I found myself in Saigon having a drink on the roof of the Rex hotel with my mutual friend Rosanne and her daughter Zoe. That night I wandered the streets of Ho Chi Minh City for hours, just exploring & sipping on cane juice until it was pretty late and my feet started to get sore. The city never did seem to slow down. The next morning I went to the Cu Chi Tunnels: An underground network used by the Viet Cong during the American War to sneak-up on and ambush the enemy before disappearing out of sight. Part of the effectiveness of these tunnels, in addition to their hidden entrances, was their size: They were small, built for the Vietnamese people who used them, and American soldiers could not fit inside. Well it turns out some Canadians can't either: Yes I got stuck in the hole........ I had the bruises on my hips for the rest of my holiday as a reminder of how I am not cut out for guerrilla warfare. Continuing with the theme of the day, my next visit was to the War Remnants Museum, where photos and mementos of the War are on display. It was a very poignant representation of how the war impacted, and is still impacting, the people of Vietnam. t was good to see this side of the story.

My Next stop was Nha Trang, A coastal town with a clear divide between the tourist and Vietnamese sides of town. Regardless of which zone you're in; however, you'll find that all electricity is cut every-other day between the hours of 6am and 10pm....... not that you need air-conditioning in 34-degree weather or anything. Here I found a much slower pace of life. I visited some Cham Ruins (~700AD), a beautiful temple, an incredible photography exhibit showing everyday life in Vietnam. My second day was split between scuba diving, lying on the beach and eating excellent food with friends. There’s a reason why this place is overrun with foreigners.

One more overnight train ride took me North to the city of Hoi An: home of quaint French architecture, and one of the only towns to escape major distruction during the war. Now the buildings may not have been damaged by bombing, but this town certainly isn't the same as it was in the 1950s. With over 200 tailors & almost as many shoemakers, with more Italian restaurants than Vietnamese, and with every other door leading to either a souvenir shop or a hotel, this place exists to relieve visitors of whatever cash they may have. Interesting how my appearance on a sidewalk immediately communicates to people that I’m a millionaire and really want to buy things or hand out cash indiscriminately. That being said, I left town with a new suit, 2 shirts, a fall coat and a new pair of shoes - all custom made for me. Oh, and also a very full stomach after one of the best Italian pasta dishes I've had in a long time. I also had my best dinner of the trip with Vanesa & Javier from Spain: A full meal for all of us, and local 'fresh' beer by the glass - Cheers to new friends & to the tab, which came to just under $9.00!

I decided to take the long route to the airport the next day, and hopped onto a motorcycle at 8:00am. We rode through small villages past fields of pineapples and rice and peanuts. I saw more Cham Ruins and Pagodas. I learned how to make rice paper, and even got to eat the one I made - good with a little soy sauce. We saw memorials to fallen soldiers and stopped at a junction where the Ho Chi Minh Trail crossed the main road traveling from the North to the South of the country. This is the trail used by the North Vietnamese during the war to bring supplies to the people fighting in the South.

Seven hours was enough for me on the back of a bike with a helmet that didn't fit, so I switched to chairs in airport waiting areas and seats on airplanes for the next forty. One notable break from the sitting and waiting was a 7-hour layover in Japan, where I wandered around a Buddhist temple and relaxed in the grounds to pass the time. So what stood out for me? This being my first trip to Asia, it was an introduction to a population density I have not known. Volumes of people on the road and in the parks, as well as meeting local people and seeing how they live together in relative harmony despite the lack of privacy - certainly different from what I am used to. This won't be my last time in Asia, and next time I'll have my feet wet and can jump right in.